Archive for the ‘Design Process’ Category

Back to square one.

PART 3 of 4: Fabric slection, materials needed, cutting out the fabric using your pattern.

So this is what you should have: A coverstitch machine and a serger (if you don’t have any of these fine machines then your sewing machine will work), 24 inches of black elastic about an inch wide or so, and 42″ by 42″ of 4 way stretch spandex fabric. In my example I used fishnet lace stuff. It’s ugly but I have a million pairs of leggings already. Check these ones out here if you’d be much obliged, as they say in the Old West. Not showin’ off or nothin. But, you know, I made them. No biggie.

Pick a nice 4 way stretch fabric (preferrably spandex). Sometimes people call 4 way stretch fabric 2 way stretch. Just as long as you can pull your fabric East and West, and then North and South with similiar stretch, then cool. If you’re kinda fat, pick black. Makes everyone look sexy, or in the very least, “kinda sexy”. (If you’re offended that I said “fat”, don’t be. Some girls look good being larger, that is, if it’s distributed throughout your body nicely. If you’re just a big blob of a mess with no style, hit the gym. You’ll feel better.)
I’m just going to throw the whole slideshow in right now and fix this tutorial tomorrow because I’m tired as hell, and I need to work on my DJs BodyCon Dress.

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Here are some diagrams of the construction. Should be easy but if not let me know.

What your fabric should look like after cutting

Fold your pieces right side together.

Turn your sewn pieces right side out.

PART 4 of 4: Waist band and then completed leggings.

PART 2: Blending line, making crotch curves, cutting out.

Get your shit together. If you happen to have some french curves or hip curves grab them and use them. Lay your paper with the plots on the ground or table or whatever and we’re going to create the ass and crotch curves as well blend the legs and cut the pattern out. *NOTE* A 3/8 inch seam allowance is already incorporated so don’t worry about it.

I’m gonna go really sloppy here but you should be able to get it.

To finish the ass and crotch curves, grab a french ruler like mine as seen in the slideshow.

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To the right of your grainline is the crotch curve and to the left of the grainline is the ass curve. Since leggins are very stretchy and forgiving you don’t have to have these curve lines exactly like mine, even though it helps. Mark the crotch side and butt side accordingly so that when we sew this together you won’t get confused.

In the slideshow, I show how I made these curves. Just copy what I did.

Then down the legs, where the dots are connected, you want to blend this to make a smooth line all the way down instead of a choppy jagged line.

Cut out after creating the top line from plots A, B, and C. Just connect these top dots and blend.

Where we left off.

Take your french curve and make a crotch and ass.

Blend the lines of the legs to make smooth curved lines.

Easy.

Cut it out.

PART 3 of 4: Fabric slection, materials needes, cutting out the fabric using your pattern. Coming tomorrow.

This is part 1 of 4 in the tutorial “Make Your Own Simple Leggings”. There are better ways to do this but I don’t feel like getting real techy here because I’ve got other shit to do. So when this is all completed you will have a simple sized medium (possibly a one size fits most) pair of leggings. Part 1 is going to show you how to draft the leggings onto paper. I will show you where to plot points on a large sheet and then in part 2 we will complete the pattern by blending the points and cut it out. Part 3 will be selecting the fabric to use and getting everything together to prepare to make your leggings. Part 4 will be actual construction, machine settings, and fitting.

PART 1:
Grab your materials. Paper scissors, tape, pencil, paper or large sheets of pattern paper, ruler, yardstick or measuring tape.

1) You’re going to need a large sized sheet to plot points. The sheet I used is 34″ wide and 42″ tall. I just taped a bunch of paper together to make mine and you can do the same. Or use pattern paper. Whatever.

2) Lay your sheet down. Directly in the middle draw a line from the very top all the way down to the bottom. This is the grainline. We will be plotting letters on this line. The line will be 42″ long; the size of the sheet.

3) 17 dots will be plotted down this line. What I did was have a measuring tape lying next to the line. The top of the paper is the start at 0 on the measuring tape and the last dot is at 42″ on the measuring tape and this point is right on the edge of the paper.

4) 1/4 inches down from 0 on the grainline, mark dot A.
1 5/8 inches down from 0 mark B.
2 1/8 inches down from 0 mark C.
10 1.5 inches down from 0 mark D.
11.5 inches mark E. (Continue all from 0)
19 5/8 inches mark I.
20 3/8 inches mark M.
23 3/8 mark N.
26 5/8 mark J.
27 3/8 mark O.
30 1/8 mark K.
31 1/4 mark P.
33 3/8 mark L.
35 3/8 mark Q.
38 1/4 mark R.
40 1/4 mark S.
42 inches at edge of paper mark F.

Vertical plotting is done, now for horizontal plotting.
5) To the left of plot A, mark a dot 6 1/4 inches to the left.
Plot B does not have any horizontal plotting.
To the right of Plot C, mark a dot 6 5/8 inches.
To the right of plot D, mark a dot 8 3/4 inches.
To the left of plot E, mark a dot 10 1/8 inches.
To the left of plot I, mark a dot 7 3/4 inches.
To the right of plot M, mark a dot 7 1/8 inches.
To the right of plot N, mark a dot 6 5/8 inches.
To the left of plot J, mark a dot 6 1/8 inches.
To the right of plot O, mark a dot 6 inches.
To the left of plot K, mark a dot 5 1/2 inches.
To the right of plot P, mark a dot 5 1/2 inches.
To the left of plot L, mark a dot 5 3/8 inches.
To the right of plot Q, mark a dot 5 inches.
To the right of plot R, mark a dot 4 3/4 inches.
To the right of plot S, mark a dot 4 1/2 inches.
On plot F, mark a dot 4 3/4 inches to the left and 4 1/2 inches to the right.

6) For all the dots to the left of the grainline, start at the dot from E and connect all the dots all the way down to the edge of the paper F (left side).

7) For all the dots to the right of the grainline, start at the dot D and connect all the dots all the way down to the edge of the paper F (right side).

PART 2: Blending line, making crotch curves, cutting out. Coming tomorrow.

Yours should look similiar to this but if it's not exact that's ok.